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 Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ (Re: Abdulgadir Dongos)
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Searching for the Rashaida of Northeastern Sudan By Mark Pelletier
July 2003 – Khartoum, Sudan
The Rashaida nomadic tribe of northeastern Sudan, seldom photographed, fiercely independent, wary of strangers, and only an eight-hour land journey from the capital city of Khartoum. I had been anxious to find the time away from work to spend one or two days in the northeast to see them and to try to photograph them. I say "try to photograph them" as they will usually decline any request to be photographed, even by locals. This July my wife, our friend Isam and I were able to get away from our commitments in Khartoum and head out to see them. Finding the Rashaida would be easy, photographing them would be another story.
Like most nomads, where they call home is entirely dependent on the season and the duration of the rains. As the rains had arrived the Rashaida had began their biannual migration from Gadarif to Kassala. With all our travel documents processed and government clearances received, we gathered our equipment and supplies and headed east toward the Red Sea.
The plan was to leave in the early afternoon after work and spend the night at the halfway point in a city called Gadarif. The road to Kassala is a good one by African standards, nicely paved and relatively straight. Once out of the cluttered traffic of Khartoum our paved road followed the southeast course of the Blue Nile. We often saw barges ferrying villagers and their animals to islands on the Nile. At the trading town of Wad Medani we broke away from the Blue Nile and headed east toward the Red Sea. From this point on only irrigation schemes and the occasional view of a young shepherd tending his flock broke the monotony of the landscape.
We spent the night at a hotel in Gadarif, a real fancy one in the center of town. One of the more memorable moments was negotiating our room price at the front desk while huge portraits of the hotel owner in his Mujahadeen military uniform stared down at us from above the counter. Room rate negotiations were quick, as under the watchful eye of the owner’s portrait we were hesitant to bargain hard. Anxious to see the Rashaida and avoid the hotel owner, we were off at 7:00 am the next morning 
Along the route we saw the Rashaida moving their camels north as they followed the rain. The Rashaida are known for their brightly colored turbans (or emmas) and their colored robes (dashdashas). These garments are the only colored dress in Sudan. All other traditional outfits worn by others are white. The Rashaida are closely related to the Saudi Arabia Bedouin, who migrated to Sudan from the Arabian Peninsula about 150 years ago.
Kassala is located at the foot of Kassala Mountain on the Gash River and serves as the state capital, the market center, and the rail transport hub. It was founded in 1840 as a military camp for the troops of Muhammad Ali during his conquest of Sudan. Kassala was captured again by the Mahdists in 1885 and by the Italians in 1894. 
Just outside Kassala we passed through our last but most thorough checkpoint. At the checkpoint our papers were scrutinized and after several minutes we were allowed to enter the city. Security is tight in Kassala, due to its proximity to Ethiopia and Eritrea. Kassala often serves as a staging point for armed rebellions supported by the neighboring regimes. It is not uncommon to see land cruiser pick-up trucks mounted with heavy machine guns tooling around town. We first needed to settle into a hotel so we checked into the Hipton, the finest hotel in Kassala. As this is the best hotel in town, we were given a wide variety of options when checking in. We are given the choice of a room with an air cooler (like an A/C but much less cool) and a western style toilet, or a room with an eastern style toilet (squatting required) with a modern air conditioner. The choice was either coolness or bathroom comfort. After much discussion, and despite the desert heat, we opted for bathroom comfort over coolness.
Finally, by late afternoon we headed out of town toward the desert to find the Rashaida. Again we had to clear our departure from the town with another stop at a security checkpoint. Our papers were again checked and rechecked while we waited by the roadside until given the all clear. We then left the paved road and headed into the desert toward the random goat skinned tents which dotted the landscape. We approached with our 4wd as quietly as possible so as not to spook the camels feeding and resting by the tents. At the first set of tents, Rashaida women and children cautiously stepped out of their tents to stare at the curious strangers who had just appeared uninvited.
Although I was anxious to hop out of the vehicle and start taking pictures immediately, I waited patiently in the truck as our guide Isam went to greet the clan. The initial approach to a family or clan should appear as benign as possible and must be handled delicately. We were glad that the men of the household were present so that we could seek permission from them to photograph the clan. After the formal greetings, we gained permission from the clan leader to visit his family. After greetings and introductions we then asked the clan leader if we could begin to take some photos. Thankfully, we were given permission. I wanted to start taking out all my gear and start shooting seriously, but thought better of it. I reasoned it was better to start taking pictures slowly with just a few snapshots here and there until the family became more comfortable having us around. Showing them the snapshots on the back of the digital camera helped ease much of the awkwardness.
منقول
http://www.markpelletierphotography.com/Searching%20for...20the%20Rashaida.htm
دنـقس .
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| العنوان |
الكاتب |
Date |
| دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-22-05, 05:13 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | هاشم نوريت | 04-22-05, 05:15 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-22-05, 05:51 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-22-05, 06:31 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Nasr | 04-22-05, 10:31 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | ابو جهينة | 04-23-05, 00:07 AM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | عمر الفاروق شيخ الدين | 04-23-05, 03:05 AM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-26-05, 08:37 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية في كيفية إضلال أهل السودان!!!!!!!!!!!!! | Elawad | 04-26-05, 10:05 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية في كيفية إضلال أهل السودان!!!!!!!!!!!!! | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-26-05, 10:21 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Elawad | 04-27-05, 09:48 AM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-27-05, 11:55 AM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Bashasha | 04-27-05, 10:12 AM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Elawad | 04-27-05, 12:19 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-27-05, 01:03 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Elawad | 04-27-05, 03:01 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-28-05, 03:31 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | alsngaq | 04-28-05, 03:56 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 04-28-05, 11:48 PM |
| Re: دروس مـجـــانــية عـن أصــول أهــل الســـودان ؛؛ | Abdulgadir Dongos | 05-04-05, 09:34 PM |
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